The 2020 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Montmains is a beautifully precise 100% Chardonnay from one of the classic Premier Cru sectors on Chablis' Left Bank. William Fèvre's bottling is particularly interesting because it is assembled from approximately 3.8–3.9 hectares spread across the three component climats of Montmains: Montmains itself, Forêts and Butteaux. The proportions are roughly equal, with slightly more Butteaux in some accounts. Each contributes something different: Butteaux tends to bring cold, mineral tension, Forêts greater perfume and elegance, and Montmains the structural backbone. The result is therefore a particularly complete expression of this hillside and its Kimmeridgian limestone soils. 2020 was also the domaine's first vintage officially in organic conversion, although organic practices had already been employed for many years.
The 2020 is a particularly successful Montmains, combining the concentration of the warm vintage with the freshness and salinity that define serious Chablis. Crisp green apple, lemon, white peach and citrus peel are joined by white flowers, subtle spice, wet stone and oyster shell. The palate has impressive density and a silky texture, but remains taut and focused, finishing bone-dry, mineral and distinctly saline. Critical reception was excellent: James Suckling 96 Points, Jasper Morris MW 92–95 Points, Decanter 93 Points, Burghound 91–93 Points and Outstanding, and Wine Advocate 92 Points. Jasper Morris particularly praised its crystalline, classical Left Bank character, while Decanter described it as highly precise and one of the successful Montmains of the vintage.
