The 2018 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Im Laychen Alte Reben Reserve Riesling Grosses Gewächs is an exceptional dry Riesling from one of the Mosel’s most celebrated vineyard sites. Produced from 100% Riesling, the wine comes from Dr. Loosen’s oldest, ungrafted vines in the Im Laychen parcel of Wehlener Sonnenuhr, with some vines more than 130 years old. The steep blue-slate terroir gives the wine its characteristic combination of delicacy, minerality and precision, while the Reserve release receives an extended maturation of 24 months on the full lees followed by several years of bottle ageing, allowing considerable complexity to develop before release.
The nose is wonderfully refined and lifted, revealing aromas of white peach, ripe green apple, pear and quince, layered with lemon zest, lime oil and delicate white flowers. As the wine opens, beautiful notes of cool blue slate, fresh herbs, subtle spice and gentle smoke emerge, with a faint hint of toasted bread adding further complexity. There is an extraordinary sense of purity and aromatic precision, balancing ripe fruit with the cool, mineral character that makes Wehlener Sonnenuhr so distinctive.
On the palate, it is dry, elegant and remarkably concentrated, with layers of white peach, citrus, tart apple and pear supported by vibrant acidity and a beautifully focused mineral structure. The extended lees ageing contributes a silky, almost creamy texture, while the blue-slate terroir brings remarkable salinity and freshness. Despite the warmth of the 2018 vintage, the wine remains slender, energetic and precise, with impressive tension through the palate. The finish is exceptionally long and graceful, combining citrus oil, white peach, crushed slate, subtle smoke and savoury mineral notes. James Suckling awarded the wine 98 points, praising its concentration, structure, precision and extremely long finish, while Vinous rated it 96 points.