2022 Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Perriere

The 2022 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru La Perrière Blanc is one of the rarest and most unusual white wines in the Côte de Nuits. Unlike almost every serious white Burgundy, this wine is not Chardonnay. It is produced entirely from Pinot Gouges, a spontaneous white mutation of Pinot Noir discovered by Henri Gouges himself while inspecting his vineyards. The domaine propagated this unique mutation, and La Perrière eventually became its most important expression. The Premier Cru parcel covers only around 0.41 hectares, on extremely rocky, limestone-rich soils associated with an old stone quarry. The domaine describes La Perrière as both confidential and fascinating, and production is tiny - typically only around 2,000-2,500 bottles per year.

The 2022 comes from vines planted in 1947, making them approximately 75 years old at harvest. It is a concentrated yet mineral wine, showing preserved lemon, green apple, white peach and citrus alongside white flowers, almond and subtle spice. The palate is broad and textured but held together by the intensely chalky character of La Perrière, finishing with saline minerality and a slight youthful austerity. Wine Spectator awarded 93 Points, while Allen Meadows of Burghound gave 89 Points, noting its excellent concentration, rich yet focused texture and stony finish. Another contemporary tasting recorded the 2022 from approximately 80-year-old vines, with a yield of 35 hl/ha and around 25% new oak.