Vincent Girardin: the man sold the house in 2012
Who makes the wine now, how it differs from Pierre Girardin, and what to open from $65 to $950.
There are two Girardin labels on our shelves and they are not the same business. Vincent Girardin founded his in the early 1980s with two hectares inherited at Santenay, built it into one of the most widely poured names in white Burgundy, then sold it in 2012 to Compagnie des Vins d'Autrefois. He kept 4.5 hectares back. In 2017 his son Pierre-Vincent used those parcels to start Domaine Pierre Girardin, which is the other label you will see here.
So the wines carrying the Vincent Girardin name today are made by a house in Meursault rather than by the man whose signature is on the bottle. Eric Germain has been the winemaker through that period, and the range has kept its shape: Chardonnay first, Côte de Beaune at its centre, a style built on restraint rather than oak. For anyone buying white Burgundy under $100 this still matters, because the house buys and farms across the full ladder of appellations and the cheaper bottles come out of the same cellar as the Grand Crus.
What follows is the range we currently hold, in price order, with what each one actually tastes like and when to open it.
The range at a glance
| Wine | Price | Window | In brief |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mâcon-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes 2023 | $65 | Now to 2032 | 40-year-old vines, the value entry |
| Cuvée Saint-Vincent Bourgogne Blanc 2023 | $72 | Now to 2032 | Côte de Beaune parcels at regional price |
| Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2023 | $185 | Now to 2045 | The red, 60-year-old vines |
| Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2023 | $269 | Now to 2040 | Village Chassagne, old-vine parcels |
| Meursault Les Narvaux 2023 | $275 | Now to 2045 | High-slope lieu-dit, Premier Cru tension |
| Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023 | $950 | Now to 2060 | The summit of the range |
Where to start under $100
Mâcon-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes 2023
Nose Lemon, white peach and ripe orchard fruit, with subtle floral and mineral notes behind them.
Palate Generous but vibrant. Stone fruit richness against bright acidity, almond and chalky minerality, a citrus-driven finish. The 40-year-old vines show as depth and texture rather than weight.
Cellar Drink now to 2032 · Peak now to 2030 · Serve 10–12°C
Grown at Fuissé on clay-limestone and held ten months on fine lees, which is more work than most wines at this price receive. If you want to know whether the house style suits you before spending $269, start here.
Cuvée Saint-Vincent Bourgogne Blanc 2023
Nose White peach, pear and citrus blossom over toasted almond and a thread of minerality.
Palate Fresh and textured, ripe orchard fruit on a chalky limestone backbone, with lemon curd, hazelnut and gentle oak spice. Clean and elegant at the close.
Cellar Drink now to 2032 · Peak now to 2030 · Serve 10–12°C
The fruit comes from parcels near Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, which is why it reads richer than a Bourgogne Blanc normally does. This is the bottle to put on the table when you want white Burgundy and six people are coming.
The red in a white-dominated range
Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2023
Nose Black cherry, blackberry and spice, with smoky and earthy notes underneath.
Palate Concentrated and firmly structured. Dark berry fruit, polished tannins, fresh acidity, then forest floor and crushed stone into a long savoury finish.
Cellar Drink now to 2045 · Peak 2030 to 2040 · Decant 1 hr
Pommard is the muscular village of the Côte de Beaune and this comes off parcels averaging more than sixty years of age. Open it with duck or roast lamb, or leave it alone for five years and let the tannins settle.
Village wines worth the step up
Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2023
Nose White peach, pear and citrus blossom with toasted hazelnut, fresh butter and a flinty edge.
Palate Textured and balanced. Ripe orchard fruit, vibrant acidity, a chalky mineral spine, then lemon curd, almond and gentle oak spice through a long refined finish.
Cellar Drink now to 2040 · Peak 2030 to 2038 · Decant 30 min
Old-vine parcels and restrained oak, which is the whole argument for buying village Chassagne over a cheaper Premier Cru from a heavier hand. Lobster and scallops if you are opening it now.
Meursault Les Narvaux 2023
Nose White peach, pear and citrus blossom with lemongrass, toasted hazelnut and flint.
Palate Focused rather than broad. Ripe orchard fruit, vibrant acidity, a pronounced chalky backbone, then lemon curd and crushed stone into a long saline finish.
Cellar Drink now to 2045 · Peak 2032 to 2042 · Decant 30 min
Narvaux sits high on the hillside above the Premier Crus, which is where the tension in this wine comes from. If your picture of Meursault is buttery and broad, this is the bottle that corrects it.
The Grand Cru
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023
Nose White peach, lemon curd and ripe pear, with acacia blossom, toasted hazelnut and flint.
Palate Rich and still tightly focused. Concentrated orchard and citrus fruit, vibrant acidity, a powerful chalky backbone, then brioche, roasted nuts and crushed stone through a seamless finish.
Cellar Drink now to 2060 · Peak 2035 to 2055 · Decant 1 hr
Corton-Charlemagne is the one white Grand Cru that answers power with minerality rather than weight, and 2023 has given it the tension to go the distance. Buy it to put away, not to open on Friday.
Where to go from here
If you want the full list, including back vintages of Meursault and the Montrachet Grand Cru, the Vincent Girardin collection holds everything we currently have. For the other half of this story, Pierre Girardin is the son's own domaine, started in 2017 on the parcels his father kept back.
Not sure which to open
Tell us the meal and the budget and we will pick the bottle. Email info@winemore.com.au or come and see us at Chadstone.