The 2023 Valli Vineyards Row 36 Pinot Noir Magnum (1500ml) is an exceptionally rare expression of Gibbston Pinot Noir, representing quite literally the best individual barrel selected from Valli’s vintage. The story of Row 36 dates back to the 2007 harvest. Valli’s Gibbston vineyard is planted north–south in a diamond-shaped layout, with Row 36 forming the longest row in the vineyard. During harvest, sommelier Josselin de Gesincourt suggested that Row 36 should be bottled separately. Grant Taylor eventually agreed on one condition: they would independently taste every barrel after élevage, and if they selected the same favourite barrel, that barrel would become Row 36. They did - and the tradition continued. Today, Row 36 is simply Valli’s single best barrel of Pinot Noir from the vintage and is bottled exclusively in Magnum.
The 2023 is intensely aromatic, showing black cherry, wild blackberry and dark plum alongside dried rose, Central Otago thyme, cocoa nib, forest floor and subtle cedar spice. The palate is noticeably more concentrated and structured than Valli’s regular 2023 Gibbston Pinot Noir, with deep dark berry fruit framed by finely woven tannins and a persistent mineral line. The wine was 100% hand-picked and fermented with 25% whole bunches, while Gibbston’s natural acidity keeps the considerable concentration fresh and precise. At just 13% alcohol, there is impressive power without heaviness, finishing with subtle graphite, spice and savoury complexity.
Ben's Recommendation: At Wine More Cellars, I think this is one of the most interesting collector wines produced by Valli. The concept is genuinely special: Grant Taylor and the Valli team taste through the barrels and select what they consider the single best barrel of the vintage, then bottle it only in Magnum (1500ml) as Row 36. That makes this dramatically rarer than Valli’s already limited single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. The Magnum format is also ideal for long-term development, particularly for a structured Pinot Noir of this quality. I would happily cellar the 2023 for another 5–10 years and expect it to evolve beautifully beyond that. For collectors of Central Otago Pinot Noir, this is a bottle worth putting away. Pair with roast duck, venison, lamb, pigeon, wild mushrooms or truffle dishes.
