The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett initially presents a reductive funk that takes time to dissipate, allowing only brief glimpses of green apple to peep through. However, the palate is superbly sprightly, vividly light and lemony fresh, skipping along light-heartedly without a care in the world. It airily and charmingly spreads its lemony perfume and charm. A quintessential, elfin Kabinett.