The 2020 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts is a concentrated 100% Chardonnay from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, combining substantial fruit depth with the floral character and mineral definition that make Puligny so distinctive. The Carillon family’s winemaking history in the village dates back to 1520, and Jacques continues this tradition through a small collection of estate vineyards. His Les Referts comes from just 0.24 hectares, situated towards the Meursault border, making it a particularly small production within the domaine’s Premier Cru range. The wine undergoes 12 months of barrel ageing with approximately 20% new oak, followed by six months in stainless steel, building texture while maintaining clarity and freshness.
The 2020 offers pear, apple, citrus zest and white flowers, accompanied by fresh almond, pastry cream and a subtle smoky note. Its concentrated palate is supported by lively acidity, with a chalky, saline finish providing definition and persistence. John Gilman awarded it 94 Points in bottle, praising its depth, precise focus and long, complex finish. Allen Meadows awarded 93 Points, highlighting its dense texture and exceptional length, while identifying Carillon as a reference producer for Les Referts. William Kelley’s early assessment of 92–94 Points also emphasised its seamless texture and completeness, describing it as a particularly strong wine within Carillon’s Premier Cru collection.
Ben’s Recommendation:
What makes this bottle interesting today is the combination of six years of development since the vintage and the structure to keep evolving. I would expect a well-stored bottle to be beginning to reveal more almond and pastry complexity, while retaining the orchard fruit and mineral drive described in its early reviews. I would drink it now through approximately 2033–2035, with 2028 onwards particularly appealing for those who prefer greater maturity. Give it some time in a large Burgundy glass to open up. It would be excellent with lobster, turbot, roast chicken or mushrooms in a cream sauce. For someone seeking a small-production Premier Cru Puligny with concentration, strong critical recognition and further ageing potential, this is a particularly attractive choice.
