The 2023 Domaine Mader Riesling “Burgweg” is one of the most exciting small-production Rieslings to emerge from Alsace in recent years. Produced by Jérôme Mader in the village of Hunawihr, the wine comes from a tiny 0.8-hectare vineyard in Ribeauvillé that had been abandoned for over 40 years before being painstakingly re-terraced and replanted in 2016. The site sits on pure gneiss soils high on a south-facing slope beneath the Château de Saint-Ulrich, close to the Vosges Mountains, where cooling influences help preserve freshness and minerality.
The 2023 vintage is only the third release of this cuvée and has already attracted significant praise, including 93 points and “Top Village Wine of the Tasting” from La Revue du Vin de France. The nose is intensely mineral and precise, showing grapefruit, lime zest and citrus blossom layered with wet stone, flint and delicate floral lift. The cool gneiss terroir contributes remarkable tension and purity, giving the wine a distinctly different personality from the richer marl-based sites more typical of the region.
Whole-bunch pressed and fermented naturally in stainless steel before spending nine months on fine lees, the wine is crafted in a classic dry Alsace style. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with vibrant acidity and exceptional mineral drive. Citrus, green apple and saline notes are carried by a chalky, crystalline structure that leads into a long, intensely refreshing finish. The combination of low residual sugar, modest alcohol and strong natural acidity creates a Riesling that feels energetic, focused and highly age-worthy.
Ben’s Recommendation:
At Wine More Cellars, this is one of the most exciting “insider” dry Rieslings in the portfolio. Compared to richer Alsace Rieslings, Burgweg is more linear, saline and tension-driven; compared to German Riesling, it is drier and more mineral-focused. The gneiss terroir gives the wine a profile that feels almost closer to top Austrian Riesling in its precision and stony freshness. Jérôme Mader continues to be one of Alsace’s most underrated producers, and Burgweg is rapidly becoming a cult site among Riesling collectors. The 2023 vintage is especially compelling because it combines purity, freshness and immediate drinkability with genuine cellar potential. Drink from 2025 onwards or cellar comfortably for 10–15+ years. Perfect with oysters, sashimi, lobster, shellfish or refined seafood cuisine.
