The 2023 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes Blanc is one of Burgundy’s most distinctive white wines, produced from the historic Clos des Monts Luisants monopole in the Côte de Nuits. Unusually, this Premier Cru is made entirely from Aligoté, with around 85% of the vines planted in 1911. The shallow, clay-rich soils contain limestone scree over white oolite and Dijon-Corton limestone, giving the wine remarkable depth, concentration and mineral character. The 2023 shows white fruit and citrus alongside lemon, gooseberry, white flowers, quince and subtle herbal and mineral notes.
On the palate, it is broad, concentrated and beautifully textured, with lively acidity providing a precise counterpoint to the generous fruit. Lemon, gooseberry, pear and white peach are complemented by quince, subtle citrus peel and delicate floral notes, while the limestone-rich soils contribute a pronounced chalky, stony and saline character. The wine has impressive weight and depth without becoming heavy, with a fine mineral tension running through the mid-palate. Fermentation begins in temperature-controlled vats before finishing in older French oak, followed by around 16 months of maturation without new barrels, allowing the old-vine Aligoté and distinctive terroir to remain at the forefront. The finish is long, dry and persistent, with lingering citrus, mineral, herbal and savoury notes.
Ben’s Recommendation:
At Wine More Cellars, this is an exceptional choice for serious Burgundy collectors and adventurous white-wine drinkers looking for one of the most unique expressions of Aligoté in Burgundy. The 2023 vintage has impressive concentration and freshness, and should develop additional quince, honeyed, nutty and savoury complexity with bottle age. Best enjoyed over the next 10–20 years. Serve lightly chilled with seared scallops, butter-poached marron, roast chicken with morels, grilled turbot with beurre blanc, mushroom and truffle risotto, or mature Comté.
