This is a Pinot of subtle power, with precise red fruit and a savoury undertow, wrapped in the kind of structure that makes you think it will evolve beautifully in the medium term. It’s not a blockbuster, nor is it meant to be – rather, it’s all about detail, texture and a quietly persistent finish. As always with PYCM’s reds, volumes are tiny, so this is a chance to see just how elegant Monthelie can be when farmed and made with this level of care.