Mount Mary’s quietly considered Quintet is our most eloquent rebuttal to misguided accusations that Australian wine is all bombast and bluster. Poise can be an overused term in wine, but here it’s an article of faith. A blend without a single stich or seam. Everything in its place, and that place determined by what surrounds it. Polished red and blackcurrant fruit, dried violets and rubbed rosemary, all exquisitely presented. It’s perfectly pitched and achingly graceful, its tannins a detailed tapestry only Bayeux could match. Always great, now better than ever, this 2023 is one of the best Australian wines of the century so far.