2017 Castello Romitorio Brunello Di Montalcino Docg

There is something heady and invigorating about this: a lifted nose of oak and fruit with notions of Marasca cherry, violet and pomegranate. Earthy hints appear, too, as do nuances of sage and soy with increasing age.

The body has densely woven, firm but fine tannins, according to the wine a great structure; a skeleton upon which fruit, oak and aroma can express themselves fully.

The wine unfolds slowly in the glass, becoming more sinuous and sensuous with air while the gentle astringency of the tannins is very moreish. Bottle age brings welcome tertiary notes of leather and herb, both grip and aroma are long lasting. This is impressive upon release but even more true to itself with advancing age.