The 2021 Domaine des Roches Neuves Bulles de Roche is a beautifully incisive and terroir-driven sparkling wine from one of the Loire Valley’s benchmark biodynamic estates. Produced by Thierry Germain in Saumur using the traditional method, the wine is crafted primarily from Chenin Blanc with small additions of Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay sourced from biodynamically farmed limestone-rich parcels. Germain harvests the fruit later than many sparkling producers to preserve depth and character, then ferments the wine in a combination of stainless steel and old barrels before ageing it on lees for around 18 months with no dosage added at disgorgement.
The nose reveals preserved lemon, green apple and pear layered alongside white flowers, brioche and crushed chalk, giving the wine exceptional lift and mineral precision. On the palate, it is light to medium-bodied with fine, persistent mousse, vibrant natural acidity and a tightly focused mineral core. Layers of citrus peel, orchard fruit and savoury lees complexity are balanced by saline freshness and deep chalky tension, finishing long, bone-dry and beautifully persistent with remarkable energy and finesse. Critics have praised its “impressive tension,” “grippy mousse” and salty mineral finish, while Falstaff awarded the 2021 vintage 91 points for its balance of texture, acidity and precision.
Ben’s Recommendation:
The 2021 Domaine des Roches Neuves Bulles de Roche is a superb Loire sparkling wine — mineral, saline and beautifully refined with outstanding freshness and complexity. Perfect as an aperitif or alongside oysters, goat’s cheese, fried seafood, sashimi or refined shellfish dishes. Enjoy now or cellar comfortably through 2035+.
