Opaque, impenetrable black-ish colour, that stains the glass and moves very slowly when swirled, leaving a residue of green-ish yellow on the walls of the glass. Very old, mellow, smoky complexities showing considerable rancio. The palate is very sweet, luscious and aged with smoked toffee, malt, molasses and praline flavours that linger on endlessly accompanied by a very high level of sweetness. A great old fortified wine, which retains freshness and vitality in the face of great aged complexity and concentration. The rancio and other savoury factors result in a surprisingly dry and refreshing aftertaste. - 98 points, Huon Hooke