The 2019 Weingut Dorli Muhr Ried Spitzerberg-Obere Roterd is a beautifully refined and intensely mineral Blaufränkisch from one of Austria’s benchmark terroir-driven producers. Sourced from the tiny Obere Roterd parcel on the limestone-rich slopes of the Spitzerberg in Carnuntum, the wine comes from dry, sandy limestone soils bordering the natural reserve at elevations between 210 and 240 metres. Dorli Muhr farms multiple parcels of Blaufränkisch here, with vines planted between 1965 and 2004, delivering remarkable complexity and precision. Fermented naturally with gentle extraction and aged in large old oak, the 2019 vintage is widely regarded as one of the greatest Spitzerberg vintages of the decade, combining density with exceptional freshness and elegance.
The nose reveals red cherry, redcurrant and wild berry fruit layered alongside tobacco leaf, licorice, rosemary and crushed limestone minerality, giving the wine extraordinary aromatic lift and detail. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with silky tannins, vibrant natural acidity and a tightly wound mineral core. Layers of sour cherry, spice and savoury herbal complexity unfold with saline freshness and remarkable energy, finishing long, precise and beautifully persistent with a distinctive citrus-tinged lift. The limestone soils and cool Spitzerberg exposure give the wine an almost Burgundian finesse despite its concentration, while critics have praised its “silky tannins,” “delicate style” and remarkable balance between power and elegance.
Ben’s Recommendation:
The 2019 Dorli Muhr Ried Spitzerberg-Obere Roterd is a world-class Blaufränkisch — mineral, elegant and beautifully structured with outstanding freshness and terroir transparency. Perfect with duck, venison, roast pork, mushroom dishes or refined Central European cuisine. Decant if drinking young or cellar gracefully through 2040+.
