The 2023 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Montmains Half Bottle is a beautifully precise 100% Chardonnay from the Montmains Premier Cru on the left bank of the Serein in Chablis, presented in the highly practical 375ml format. William Fèvre works approximately 3.7–3.8 hectares here, with holdings spread across Montmains itself as well as Forêts and Butteaux, giving the final wine additional complexity from the different positions within the climat. The parcels face predominantly south and southeast and sit over classic Kimmeridgian marl and limestone, the fossil-rich geology responsible for much of Chablis' characteristic tension and saline minerality. The 2023 is assembled from around 10 individual parcels, which are harvested and vinified separately before blending.
The 2023 is an excellent expression of Montmains, combining the generosity of the vintage with classic Chablis freshness. Expect Granny Smith apple, pear, lime and gooseberry, followed by jasmine, acacia blossom, oyster shell, chalk and subtle spice. The palate is taut and energetic but has genuine substance, finishing with a long saline and mineral character. Critical reception is particularly strong: 95 Points from Decanter, 94 Points from Wine Enthusiast, 93 Points from James Suckling and 91 Points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. Decanter's Charles Curtis MW highlights the wine's initial reserve, freshness and underlying density, while Wine Advocate describes it as taut and racy with a distinctly saline finish.