The 2023 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Montmains is a classic 100% Chardonnay from the left bank of the Serein, produced by one of Chablis' benchmark domaines. William Fèvre owns approximately 3.7–3.8 hectares across Montmains, Forêts and Butteaux, with the final cuvée drawing on all three sectors. This is important because each contributes something slightly different: Montmains brings richness and structure, Forêts contributes fruit, while the cooler, later-ripening Butteaux sector brings minerality and tension. The vineyards have predominantly south and southeast exposures, and the naturally stony, Kimmeridgian-influenced terroir gives Montmains its characteristic combination of concentration, freshness and saline minerality. In 2023, the different parcels were harvested and vinified separately before blending, with approximately 40–50% fermented in older oak and the remainder in tank.
The 2023 is a particularly successful Montmains, combining the generosity of the vintage with unmistakable Chablis precision. Expect Granny Smith apple, lemon, lime and pear, followed by white blossom, acacia, oyster shell, chalk, flint and subtle marine notes. There is real substance through the middle of the palate, but the wine remains taut and energetic, finishing with citrus, crushed stone and a long saline edge. Critical recognition is excellent: 95 Points Decanter, 94 Points Wine Enthusiast, 91–94 Points Jasper Morris MW, 93 Points James Suckling, 92 Points Wine Spectator and 91 Points Wine Advocate. Jasper Morris considered it a potentially first-class Montmains, while Wine Advocate emphasised its taut, racy palate and saline finish.
