The 2022 Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs is one of Germany’s most profound dry Rieslings and a benchmark expression of the legendary Morstein vineyard in Westhofen, Rheinhessen. Produced by Weingut Wittmann, one of Germany’s leading biodynamic estates, this Grosses Gewächs (GG) comes from a vineyard that has become synonymous with world-class dry Riesling. The limestone-rich soils of Morstein are renowned for producing wines of extraordinary mineral intensity, structure and longevity, and the 2022 vintage has delivered a wine of remarkable concentration, precision and ageing potential.
The nose is intensely complex and beautifully layered, revealing aromas of lemon zest, grapefruit and white peach alongside lemon balm, crushed herbs and delicate floral notes. As the wine opens, pronounced aromas of wet chalk, flint and limestone emerge, complemented by hints of citrus oil, stone fruits and subtle yeasty complexity. The aromatic profile is both powerful and restrained, displaying extraordinary purity and a profound sense of place.
On the palate, it is full-bodied yet remarkably precise, with vibrant acidity and immense mineral drive. Layers of citrus, white stone fruits and orchard fruits unfold across the palate, supported by a powerful chalky limestone backbone and subtle saline tension. The wine possesses extraordinary concentration and structure, with fine phenolic grip providing depth and longevity. Despite its intensity, it remains focused and energetic, leading to an exceptionally long, dry and persistent finish marked by notes of lemon peel, crushed stone and chalky minerality. The style is monumental and age-worthy, combining power, elegance and terroir expression in a way that few Rieslings can achieve. Critics have described the wine as enormously mineral, saline and structured, with decades of development ahead.
Ben’s Recommendation:
At Wine More Cellars, this is an outstanding choice for serious Riesling collectors and lovers of the world’s great white wines. Compared to more fruit-driven Riesling styles, Morstein Grosses Gewächs is all about minerality, structure and vineyard expression. The 2022 vintage offers slightly more richness and generosity than cooler years, while still maintaining the laser-like precision that defines Wittmann’s greatest wines. This is a wine that comfortably sits alongside Grand Cru Burgundy and top dry Rieslings from around the world in terms of quality and longevity. While already fascinating with extended aeration, its true complexity will emerge over many years. Drink from 2027 onwards or cellar confidently through to 2050 and beyond. Perfect with lobster, scallops, turbot, pork dishes, fine seafood cuisine, aged Comté or simply enjoyed on its own as one of Germany’s greatest dry Riesling experiences.
