The Louis Roederer Collection 246 Brut is a particularly impressive modern multi-vintage Champagne and, in my view, one of the most interesting recent iterations of Roederer's Collection range. It is based on the difficult 2021 harvest, but the blend is deliberately constructed to compensate for that vintage's challenges, using a substantial reserve component dating back to 2012.
Collection 246 comprises 54% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 11% Meunier. The 2021 harvest contributes 55%, while 35% is Roederer's Perpetual Reserve (2012–2020) and another 10% consists of reserve wines aged in oak. Around 24% of the wines were vinified in French oak foudres, and dosage is a restrained 7 g/L.
The nose is elegant and lifted, showing pear, mirabelle plum, nectarine and lemon, with white flowers, chalk and subtle toasted notes. There is also an intriguing fine reductive character - almost shellfish-like - alongside vanilla, pastry and roasted almond. The high proportion of Chardonnay gives the wine considerable aromatic precision and freshness.
On the palate, it is light, silky and beautifully energetic, with peach, pear and candied citrus flavours. The mousse is exceptionally fine and creamy, while chalky minerality and saline freshness provide the backbone. Rather than being rich or heavy, the wine has a wonderfully powdery, mouth-watering texture, finishing with subtle smoky and toasted notes.
The finish is dry, chalky and persistent, with citrus, orchard fruit, floral notes and a gentle savoury bitterness. It is a Champagne that gains complexity as it warms in the glass rather than relying on sheer richness.
