The 2021 Vins de la Madone Les Rougeots du Clos is a fascinating and highly distinctive Loire Valley red crafted by biodynamic grower Gilles Bonnefoy in the little-known IGP Urfé appellation of the Côte du Forez. Sourced from a single one-hectare south-facing vineyard planted at 600 metres altitude on volcanic granite and clay soils, the wine is made from a rare blend of Gamay de Chaudenay, Gamay de Bouze and Gamaret — unusual teinturier and semi-teinturier varieties prized for their colour, perfume and intensity. Produced with native yeasts, no chaptalisation and no added sulphur, it is a pure, energetic expression of both site and grape.
The nose reveals black cherry, wild blackberry and ripe plum layered with violet, white pepper, wild herbs and smoky mineral notes. On the palate, it is juicy yet surprisingly structured, combining dense dark fruit with vibrant acidity and a distinctive stony freshness from its volcanic terroir. Layers of black cherry, boysenberry, mulberry and spice unfold with remarkable energy and texture, while fine tannins provide shape and persistence. Despite its depth and concentration, the wine remains lively, crunchy and beautifully drinkable, finishing long with notes of dark berries, earth and granite-driven minerality.
Ben’s Recommendation:
The 2021 Vins de la Madone Les Rougeots du Clos is a seriously exciting natural Loire red — vibrant, wild and packed with dark fruit, spice and volcanic character. A brilliant bottle for adventurous wine lovers who enjoy Beaujolais, Jura reds or low-intervention wines with genuine personality. Serve lightly chilled alongside charcuterie, roast pork, game birds, mushroom dishes, barbecue meats or strong cheeses. Enjoy now for its freshness and energy or cellar through 2030 for added complexity.
