The 2018 Moorooduc Estate The Moorooduc McIntyre Chardonnay Magnum is a serious, age-worthy example of Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay, made from the estate's oldest and most prized vines. The McIntyre Vineyard was planted from 1983 and is an elevated site with sandy topsoil over clay, sand and gravel, with iron-rich red clay deeper down. Moorooduc selects the finest Chardonnay from this vineyard for the The Moorooduc McIntyre single-vineyard bottling.
The 2018 vintage is particularly interesting because Moorooduc was already moving towards earlier picking and more restrained oak use. The 2018 wines used around 20% new oak, allowing the fruit and savoury vineyard character to remain prominent.
The bouquet is initially quite restrained, with lemon and citrus rind, white peach and subtle orchard fruit, followed by cashew, sandalwood and a gentle cheesy/savoury character. With air, the wine becomes increasingly complex, revealing almond, toast, wet stone and hints of honeyed maturity. The producer's own description of the 2018 highlights its savoury, cashew and citrus-rind character and its tightly wound power.
On the palate, it is rich, concentrated and remarkably structured, with intense citrus and stone-fruit flavours supported by firm acidity. There is a beautiful savoury, nutty texture through the mid-palate, with cashew, almond, subtle cream and mineral notes. Moorooduc's Chardonnay style is deliberately more substantial and textural than the ultra-lean modern Australian style, with natural malolactic fermentation and extended lees maturation contributing to its supple, layered character.
The finish is long, dry and savoury, with citrus oil, grapefruit pith, cashew and mineral notes lingering. At around eight years from vintage, the 2018 should be developing the beginnings of attractive tertiary complexity while retaining the firm acidity that gives McIntyre Chardonnay its longevity.
