The 2021 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah is a compelling and site-defining release, marking the first vintage from this granite-rich Harcourt North vineyard in Victoria’s Bendigo G.I. Crafted with a meticulous, minimal intervention approach and extended maturation in both neutral oak and concrete, it reflects a wine of perfume, structure and depth - slightly more powerful than later vintages, yet still defined by finesse. The nose is highly perfumed and complex, showing violet, lavender and red to dark fruits such as raspberry, cherry and blackcurrant. These are layered with cracked pepper, dried herbs, anise and subtle mineral notes, alongside hints of Earl Grey tea and spice, giving the wine both aromatic lift and savoury intrigue.
On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied with fine yet firm tannins and vibrant acidity that provides both power and precision. The fruit profile is concentrated and layered, with red and dark berry flavours supported by spice, earth and mineral tension. Despite its depth, the wine remains composed and structured, leading to a long, savoury and persistent finish with excellent ageing potential.
Ben’s Recommendation:
At Wine More Cellars, this is a standout early release from the Harcourt site - showing a slightly more structured and powerful profile compared to the more refined, later vintages. It sits stylistically between Northern Rhône Syrah and a more mineral-driven Australian expression, combining perfume with serious backbone. Compared to richer Shiraz styles, it offers more spice, structure and savoury complexity. Best enjoyed with decanting if drinking now, or cellar through 2035+ as it softens and gains further nuance. Excellent with lamb, game meats or earthy, slow-cooked dishes.
