The 2017 Dom Pérignon Brut is an especially compelling vintage from the iconic prestige Champagne house. It was a challenging growing season, requiring rigorous selection, but the result is a Champagne with an unusual combination of richness, tension, minerality and bitter-citrus freshness. The 2017 release was also exceptionally small; current technical information gives the blend as 61% Chardonnay and 39% Pinot Noir, with around seven years of lees ageing and a low dosage of approximately 4.5–5 g/L.
The bouquet is expressive and complex, opening with lemon confit, candied citrus, white flowers and jasmine, alongside pear, dried apple and ripe stone fruit. With air, more savoury and developed aromas emerge - petrichor, toasted bread, marzipan, almond, hazelnut and a subtle smoky reduction. The combination of floral perfume and mineral earthiness is particularly attractive in this vintage.
On the palate, it is full-bodied, creamy and concentrated, with a remarkably fine mousse. Flavours of dried apple, pear, grilled citrus and lemon meringue are balanced by vibrant acidity and a distinctive phenolic bitterness. The wine has considerable textural richness, but the chalky mineral character and saline freshness keep it energetic rather than heavy.
The finish is long, dry and highly persistent, with citrus pith, chalk, toast, hazelnut and smoky mineral notes. Antonio Galloni rated the vintage 97 points, while James Suckling gave it 96 and described it as dense, layered and full-bodied. The Wine Advocate awarded it 95+, highlighting its depth and structure.
