2022 Pierrick Laroche Maison des Hates Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

Back to a contract, one barrel and one demi-muid for elevage. Candle protection used here, just above the section that uses the aspersion. Hmm, that’s not powerful but it is beautifully inviting. Larger scale – of course! A wine of generous concentration but always juicily melting with flavour at the edges. Clearly the most complex and changing, long finish. – 94 points, Bill Nanson