Has the salmon-pink colour of a rosé – and as much flavour as many. Views on the desirability (or not) of the pink colour are split, with no likelihood of being resolved any time soon. The bouquet is redolent of spice, white pepper and wild strawberries. The palate a mirror image. It's not classic, but as a left-field wine, it is pretty good. From this crusty old barnacle, that's high praise.