There's this distinct textural thing that you find in Cobaw Ridge wine that feels like it turns the volume up on its unfiltered nature, somewhat similar in my mind to drinking Bass Phillip or the great Burgundies of Prieure-Roch. The wines feel more cloudy apple juice texture, hazy, with tannin entirely through the wine rather than a sheath or train tracks or similar. And I like it. The art equivalent for me would be abstract expressionism. I like that too. This wine continues the theme. Chalky and powdery yet wildly juicy and fresh. Sage and eucalyptus settle in sour cherry juice and blood plum flavour, with acidity all Campari and tang. It starts fleshy, roll through the palate for ages, finishes pleasing bitter, maybe slightly sweet, lightly gummy and herbal. All good. A moreish wine with the vibe of something nourishing, lots of interest, marching to its own beat. – 94 points, Mike Bennie
